November 24, 2002
hey everyone.
well things are going pretty good here so far, except for the job
thing. just in case don't send us anything to our address anymore and
if you have just let us know and our buddy form ballina will come and pick
it up after we left, he's a good guy. so that's all the bad news for
now. surfing is picking up for sure and we are getting better
day by day, its still hard but were getting it. the last couple
times we went out we've been catching some waves but not getting up yet, that's
the hardest part, and if we do get up we wipe out right away or just have
some trouble riding it out, but give us another two weeks at the friggin
most and well start riding some tubes don't you worry....... oh yeah
we have been surfing with some dolphins too lately, the first time we saw
them we came about 100 ft from them and the last time Travis came 20 ft from
a couple, the coolest thing ever, people tell us how they swim under your
board and you can touch them sometimes, but they toss you around a bit once
in a while but nothing harsh. we went swimming in this river
yesterday and we could walk pretty much 3/4 across it cause the tide was
half way up and when its down you can see the sand half way across, it just
looks wild when you stand in the middle of a river and the shore is so far
away. we are getting pretty burnt though, not too bad, but the
sun is killer and its beating the crap out of us, lots of aloe vera.
were still hunting for jobs but a friend of ours dads might hook us up with
something so well have to see, maybe something along the lines of
renovations and stuff like that. oh yeah we sent some pics
home and they should be there by this fri and maybe another week or so for
development cause if you want to develop a roll of 24 here it'll cost you 12
bucks and 18 for doubles, insane. so hopefully within the next 2 weeks
well have some pics for you. we got tonnes so that will keep you
busy for a while. we've been doing a lot of swimming in
the ocean as well, we go out there and let the waves pick us up and ride
along with them for a bit, its hard to catch on to soy ou get the odd
one but when you its a pretty crazy feeling, the other day I got my
ass kicked by one, it was stirring up all the dirt on the shore and I didn't
care I jumped up and rode along for a couple seconds then it curled and I
did too and smack, nailed the sand and a few rocks on the bottom and got
tossed around a bit, when I emerged from the cover of water I looked up and
saw Travis bursting out laughing at me getting slaughtered out there, it was
actually pretty funny cause it felt cool at the same time being dragged and
tossed around like that, don't be deceived these things are pretty powerful
these waves........
anyways talk to all of you soon and hope to hear from yaw........
cheers
-oLiver and Travis